Ten years after the luxuriant Bal des Roses opus, Victoire de Castellane has created a new high jewelry collection dedicated to the rose. Composed of fifty-four superbly realistic figurative pieces, Rose Dior pays poetic and colorful tribute to Monsieur Dior’s favorite flower.
From his childhood garden in Granville, Normandy, and the rose garden his mother lovingly tended, Christian Dior came to cherish nature, and roses in particular. Today, Victoire de Castellane celebrates them in the spirit of the times. On a pink gold necklace with yellow gold leaves, a rose sown with diamonds unclips to become a brooch, while a diamond rivière necklace adorned with a ruby flower transforms into a bracelet. Sprinkled with diamonds or pink sapphires, the rose crowns an adjustable necklace that slides from a sautoir into a choker in a flash.
The Artistic Director confirms her talent as a colorist, bringing together the most beautiful, precious, and fine gemstones to mirror the extreme delicacy of tonalities, from the bud picked in the morning to petals in full bloom in the evening. The virtuoso pairing of pink spinels gives rise to a parure blossoming with pear-cut gemstones. A lagoon blue Paraïba tourmaline blooms on a Y-shaped necklace, while an ultramarine blue Madagascar sapphire weighing more than eight carats crowns a flared cut rose, placed atop a white gold stem sprinkled with dew drops formed by briolette diamonds.
Infused with the same poetry, leaves and petals dress the ear with rubies shaded with yellow gold; Zambian emeralds embellish a flower and its stem, and dormeuse drop earrings with yellow diamond petals. These also surface on a ring evoking a freshly picked flower with barely open petals. Unfurling their graceful corolla, each ring is a bouquet in itself, bursting with verdant tsavorites and triangular-cut emeralds with a bluish tinge, sparkling with emerald-cut diamond buds, or a kaleidoscope of green, blue, yellow and pink with a pistil in lozenge-cut pink spinel weighing more than four carats.
To underscore the finesse of the wrist, bracelets—like necklaces—are fashioned from gold evoking a plant-like texture. In the Parisian haute joaillerie workshops, the hammered and polished precious metal transforms into a stem wrapped in frost using intermittently paved diamonds of different diameters, while rose petals edged with diamonds lend grace to the secret watch, crowning the La D de Dior with a flower- shaped cluster of diamonds or pink sapphires.
“After women, flowers are the most divine creations. They are so delicate and so charming (…),” wrote Monsieur Dior. Victoire de Castellane’s creativity is proof.