Following the launch of the first chapter of The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection in January, De Beers Jewellers continues to explore the natural, elemental magic of light.
The brand has unveiled five new jewellery sets during Couture Week in Paris. The new chapter reveals the astonishing and diverse Dusk Reflection, Ascending Shadows, Midnight Aura, Optical Wonder, and Frozen Capture sets that explore and interpret light in ever inventive ways.
The collection comprises a total of 45 one-of-a-kind pieces. The new sets sit alongside Atomique, a creative interpretation of diamonds at a molecular level, as well as Light Rays, capturing the moment sunlight radiates across the morning sky.
“The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection represents the most creatively and technically ambitious collection we have ever conceived and crafted,” De Beers Jewellers CEO Céline Assimon says. “It incorporates exceptional diamonds in white and fancy colors, including some specially selected from our Natural Works of Art collection. Our design studio, collaborating with our specialist craftspeople, has created individual pieces that are truly wearable works of art.”
The Dusk Reflection set features detachable elements—for instance, the magnificent choker which transforms into two cuffs. It’s a masterpiece of artistry and technical execution.
In a palette of pink and white, the Dusk Reflection set is inspired by a sunset radiating a soft glow over the horizon. With four unique designs, its design incorporates De Beers’ iconic Enchanted Lotus motif. Inspired by the lotus, a flower associated with the sun because it blooms by day, retreats into the water at night, remerging fresh in the morning. The repetitive pattern is suggestive of daily rhythms.
Pieces are sensual and feminine, with white round brilliant diamonds woven within alternating rose and white gold settings. Satinée radial finishing lends the gold a brushed appearance, enhancing its radiance.
The magnificent choker is beautifully flexible and has a sensuous, tactile quality. A multiplicity of lotus motifs suspend an exquisite 1.13 carat, fancy intense pink radiant-cut diamond from De Beers Natural Works of Art collection. A near-invisible mechanical system allows the diamond to be detached and worn as a pendant on a longer necklace.
The longline earrings in rose and white gold, featuring white diamond lotus motifs in delicate openwork, can also be worn as studs. If preferred it can also be presented in a third styling opportunity, worn asymmetrically. The pendant necklace showcases a beautiful 1.02 carat round brilliant white diamond within a motif that can also be detached —the necklace with its graphic diamond motifs then becomes an elegant sautoir. Completing the set are the bold quadrilateral earrings surrounding a round brilliant diamond at their centres, a fusion of classic and contemporary design.
Meanwhile, both the Ascending Shadows and Optical Wonder sets use colored titanium and aluminium in striking pink and blue shades to sublime sculptural effect. This showcases both white and fancy color diamonds.
Boundary-pushing in style and story, the Ascending Shadows set contains seven spectacular pieces. These accessories are architectural in shape and striking in shade. Its design cue is the way it stepped surfaces dramatically play with light and shade, reminiscent of the spiral staircase in De Beers Jewellers’ new flagship store in Old Bond Street, London. The inspired use of pink, blue, and green anodised titanium and coated aluminium creates innovative surfaces on which to highlight rare pink and grey diamonds, as well as green and browny pink roughs.
Modern and magnificent in equal measure, the hero piece is the sweeping necklace. Graduating in size and shape, dark blue aluminium steps rise to meet light blue titanium set with white round brilliant diamonds. Edged in white marquise-shaped diamonds and green roughs, the focus is an exquisite 3.41 carat fancy light grey pear-shaped diamond.
Echoing the dynamic movement of this spiral form, the large hoop earrings fan out. The duality of the blue aluminium and titanium showcases two central 1.01 carat white pear-shaped diamonds. In the same color scheme, the dramatic drop earrings feature two fans folding out from 2.10 carat fancy dark grey square emerald-cut diamonds. Smaller earrings in intense rose aluminium reinterpret the fan-effect pattern, set with browny pink roughs and intense pink round brilliant and white marquise-shaped diamonds radiating from a central 1.02 carat pear-shaped diamond.
Two incredible rings step up to the theme in intense rose and light green aluminium. Each has a plethora of white marquise-shaped and intense pink round brilliant diamonds set in light grey titanium, set with rare fancy colored diamonds at their centers. To complete the set, a bijou de tête features a sweeping double fan on a headband. It is set with white marquise and green roughs, as well as a central 2.70 carat fancy grey oval-shaped diamond. This can be detached from the headband to be worn as a brooch.
Optical Wonder, on the other hand, takes its inspiration from geometric patterns that create illusionary effects as seen in the work of Victor Vasarely, an exponent of the Op Art movement. The set contains seven striking pieces in which contrasting bold lines. The pieces are created from pavéset diamonds and colored aluminium, drawing the eye to the stunning hero diamonds. In keeping with the Op Art feel, some pieces are monochrome while others feature vibrant hues.
Dramatic black aluminium brings schematic resonance to the spectacular yellow rough and polished diamonds in the necklace and earrings. With its multiple, striped motifs, the necklace features an astonishing 3.02 carat fancy intense yellow radiant-cut diamond at its center. It’s a design echoed in the longline earrings that can be transformed into geometric studs.
A double open ring decorates the hand with a trio of bold shapes, a 1.7 carat emerald-cut white diamond in the center. A standout piece is the bangle with its alternating bands of yellow round brilliant pavé-set diamonds and black aluminium, showcasing a 3.02 carat fancy deep greyish green oval-shaped diamond.
In the two rings—one dramatic pink, one vibrant blue—white pavé-set diamond lines whirl on undulating, sculptural shapes. This converges on the hero diamonds, with the pink ring adorned with no less than a 1.01 carat fancy intense pink radiant-cut diamond from De Beers Natural Works of Art collection.
Midnight Aura, evocative of cosmic stardust, sets diamonds within the green gemstone chrysoprase.
Green clouds of stardust are the inspiration for the Midnight Aura set with its five inventive pieces. Black rhodium offers the perfect backdrop to peerless white round brilliant and princess-cut diamonds. These are innovatively set within cabochon-cut green chrysoprase from Africa, a technique that requires incredible precision.
The magical necklace is so precisely and delicately articulated. It feels like fabric, with hundreds of bezel-set diamonds creating a flexible mesh. Featuring an extraordinary 20.57 carat pear-shaped white diamond from De Beers Natural Works of Art collection, which can be detached, this piece can be worn in three different ways. The design is echoed in the chandelier earrings with a constellation of round brilliant diamonds cascading from magnificent pear-shaped diamonds that transform into studs.
Both rings are inspired by continuity and connection. In the first, pavé-set diamonds follow the symbol for infinity, with two chrysoprase cabochons flanking a 0.7 carat princess-cut white diamond. The second is an open ring with a 4.23 carat pear-shaped white diamond opposite a princess-cut diamond inlaid into chrysoprase. The theme of cosmic orbiting is also brought to life in the climber earrings. A multiplicity of diamond cuts and settings reflect the mystical cosmos.
Finally, Frozen Capture layers diamonds juxtaposed with rock crystal motifs. Inspired by the play of light through frozen rivers, six stunning pieces sparkle with artistic brilliance and diamond expertise. A first for De Beers, the set features rock crystal from Brazil. Each individual piece was cut solely for this project and even used as a diamond setting.
The magnificent necklace is row upon row of pristine perfection. Round brilliant diamonds interspace squares of crystal, all mounted on polished gold to give a translucent, mirror effect. These transition into a fringe of marquise-shaped diamonds, finishing in an astounding 20.10 carat pear-shaped flawless diamond from De Beers Natural Works of Art collection. Its layering aesthetic represents how ice gradually gains greater light intensity as compact ice slowly starts to thaw to become more transparent at its edges. The chandelier earrings follow the same design cue as the necklace, dancing with light.
The ear cuff and stud make a contemporary statement with crystal squares from which white marquise-shaped diamonds delicately drop. The spectacular, fluid bracelet is created along similar design lines. One of the two rings featuring an internally flawless oval-shaped 8.24 carat diamond. Meanwhile, the other, a 10.31 carat round brilliant, are both from De Beers Natural Works of Art collection. The round ring is bombé cut from one single piece of crystal, engraved with squares to mirror the aesthetic codes of the immaculate icy theme.
And Céline can assure you one statement. “Every piece is as exquisite as it is extraordinary,” she happily beams.